A History and Guide to Formex

Jacob Van Buren

Oct 28, 2025

What’s in a name? For Formex, nearly everything. Built from the French phrase forme extème, or “extreme shape,” the brand’s entire design philosophy is distilled in its name. Watchmaker brothers Hans-Peter and Ferdinand Grädel conceived the initial idea in 1999 and the following year saw the birth of the brand.

Inspired by the engineering of high-end racing cars and bikes, the brand’s early watches were designed with a high-octane sense of design that would come to form the core of Formex's design language. The introduction of their patented case suspension system formed the key to this unique design philosophy. Here’s how it works: the case is suspended between four small springs. This allows the case to absorb shock through some built-in movement. Ideal for those racing at the limits of mechanical engineering, it also means increased comfort for wearers of all speeds.

This focus on racing was the driving force behind the brand’s early forays into print advertising. The brand went so far as to sponsor teams competing in crowning events like the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the premier sports car endurance race.These watches — mostly above 43mm — were purpose-built to withstand the toughest sporting conditions in the world.

Then disaster struck. Just eight years into its full-fledged existence, the global financial crisis of 2008 brought everything to a standstill for the brand. Formex, like many small independent manufacturers, was hit especially hard. The brand, while not dormant, drastically reduced its output over the next eight years. Moving forward required something bolder.

The brand made its most daring move yet in 2016, upending its entire distribution model and cultivating a more streamlined product line. At the same time, the brand shifted from marketing campaigns to focus a greater portion of its budget on engineering and product development.

It proved wildly successful.

Formex’s relaunch leveraged crowd-funding, putting its new distribution model to the test by providing enthusiasts with an in-depth look at the collection that has come to define the brand’s contemporary incarnation: the Essence Chronometer.

The relaunch also saw a shift within the brand’s design language. The core inspiration was still there, but where brawn reigned before, a certain elegance entered. Case sizes came down, dials sobered from former hardcore motoring inspiration, and the finishing level was raised.While the Essence remains at the brand’s core, they’ve branched out into new realms. Capitalizing on the popularity of the travel and dive watch forms, Formex has continually charted its own unique expression of these archetypes while incorporating its signature avant-garde design and extreme forms.

The Stratos UTC is Formex’s expression of the modern pilot’s watch. Featuring a 41mm steel case, the GMT complication is managed through pushers at 2:00 and 4:00, negating the need to unscrew the crown to adjust to local time, all while maintaining 100m of water resistance. The Reef collection of dive watches features two cases, 42mm and 39.5mm, each featuring 300m of water resistance. These COSC-certified divers feature tool-less interchangeable bezels for an always fresh appearance and easily swapped strap and bracelet options. Operating at the edge of function and style, the collection is a tribute to the brand's extreme form design language.

FEATURED FORMEX WATCHES

The recent 40mm Field Automatic has proved even more impactful. Aimed at giving enthusiasts a more affordable entry into the brand, the Field Automatic brings hardened Grade 2 titanium construction around a Swiss automatic caliber for under $1,000. Comfort is still one of the brand’s top concerns. Although its signature case suspension system is not used, Formex incorporated its patented carbon composite clasp into the Field Automatic’s leather straps for 7mm of fine adjustment.

This commitment to Swiss manufacturing remains at Formex’s core. Founded in Bien-Bielle, the brand still designs, develops, and assembles each watch from its headquarters. Today, the brand is still owned by the family and remains proudly independent. Formex has established itself more firmly than ever as a brand making interesting watches for enthusiasts. Their direct-to-consumer model has propelled them further into the hearts and onto the wrists of enthusiasts the world over.

To see more of our favorite Formex watches, check out the brand page on the Windup Watch Shop or come see them in person at the Windup Watch Fair. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, many of the products shown are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.

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