How Does A Dive Bezel Work?

Blake Malin

Windup Watch Shop     |     June 19, 2024

Almost everyone loves a good dive watch, and we believe everyone should at least have one in their collection. Who are we kidding? We think you should have many. That said, how certain are you that you fully understand one of its most essential features? This feature is even more critical than the luminescent paint on the dial and hands, the water-resistance rating, and the diver’s extension. That’s right; today, we are discussing the unidirectional rotating diver’s bezel and how to use it.

Instantly recognizable at a distance, the dive watch bezel was first invented in the 1950s during the glory years of SCUBA (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) diving. This was well before dive computers were invented, and recreational divers needed a way to track their bottom time, which is the total time spent underwater. The bezel is a reminder to prevent divers from exceeding their diving time limit with limited oxygen. Why is bottom time crucial to monitor? Because a diver can only stay at a certain depth for a limited time before exceeding safe nitrogen levels.

To avoid serious issues, divers must pay attention to the “no decompression limits,” and there is a simple rule for calculating these limits. Remember the "120 rule": 120 minus the maximum depth equals the amount of time, in minutes, that you can stay underwater. For example, if your maximum depth is 80 feet, you can stay underwater for 40 minutes. Now you know why some older Citizen Aqualand watch straps used to have the NO DECO tables printed on them. Staying longer than the limits will require decompression stops as you ascend. This is another form of diving that is best left to the experts.

How does the bezel operate? Rotate the bezel until the 60-minute pip, arrow, or triangle lines up with the minute hand. The minute hand will then indicate the elapsed time shown on the track on the bezel. You might still be wondering why the bezel only rotates counterclockwise. This is for safety reasons. If the bezel is accidentally knocked and moved, it will only shorten the dive time and not extend it, reducing the risk of being underwater for too long. Now we understand if you're thinking, "I own dive watches, but I don’t actually dive. Can I use this functionality for something else?" The answer is absolutely!

Essentially, what you have on your wrist is a low-tech, extremely solid, forever reliable chronograph. By lining up the bezel with your minute hand, you basically have a count-up timer. You can use it to time steaks on the barbecue, a parking meter, a race, or even an espresso shot by lining it up with the second hand. After reading all this, we bet you will find more uses for your dive bezel and have even more fun with your watches. The following are four fantastic examples of dive watches that deserve serious consideration in our Windup Watch Shop.

The Windup Watch Team is available for consultations to answer any questions. Additionally, all our products are eligible for free domestic shipping within the US.

Spinnaker Spence 300

Our first pick is from the house of Spinnaker, a prolific brand that produces value-packed dive watches in six distinct collections. We have chosen the no-nonsense Spence 300, a classically styled dive watch capable of withstanding 300 meters of water pressure. It is proportioned to be contemporary, not oversized, and should fit most wrist sizes comfortably. It sports a sapphire crystal coated for anti-reflection, and ticking away inside is an upmarket Miyota 9-series movement. Four dial colors are available in the shop: black, blue, green, and red. Best of all, the matching bezels have luminescence in the pip, and the larger hash marks also glow. It comes on a 3-link stainless steel bracelet featuring a push-button clasp. Additionally, each timepiece includes a bonus leather strap, along with a bracelet-changing tool. It is the best of both worlds: yesterday's looks and tomorrow's performance.

Citizen Promaster Aqualand

To say the Citizen Aqualand has had a significant impact on the diving world would be an understatement. Since its introduction in the mid-80s, this watch line has had an impressive dive bezel and a built-in depth gauge. It can track distance, trigger a maximum depth alarm, and has dual time functionality, a regular alarm, and even a stopwatch. It can display all this information via the LCD at the top of the dial. Speaking of the dial, not only do the hands and markers glow but so do the dial and chapter ring. It is like wearing a torch on your wrist, and to magnify the effect, the entire case, crown, and pushers are PVD-coated black. Despite its large size, the watch is comfortable on various wrist sizes and has a proper ribbed polyurethane dive strap. This one doesn’t just look the part; it is the part.

Citizen Series8 890

Unlike the Aqualand, the Series8 890 is brand new. It is Citizen’s take on an integrated bracelet sports dive watch; however, do not let its looks fool you. This is a full-fledged dive watch in every respect, though you could wear it to the office and out to dinner without any worries. It includes textured dials, applied indices, and an internal rotating bezel. The latter can be operated by using the second crown located at 2 o’clock. It is fitted with a display case back so that you can admire the automatic cal. 9051 movement, which has been tastefully decorated. As the term suggests, the bracelet is seamlessly integrated into the case, creating a pleasing visual continuity, though finding alternate straps may prove difficult. Mind you, with this remarkable bracelet, you may never want to swap it out. In the water or on land, this one can do it all.

Boldr 3XT GMT

And now for something completely different—and what a treat it is. This is the BOLDR Supply Co. collaboration with Worn & Wound. It is a traveler’s GMT dive watch powered by the game-changing Miyota 9075 automatic movement, which allows the user to set the hour hand without disturbing the timekeeping. Known for our liberal use of vibrant colors, this timepiece shines like no other and has a unique inner rotating bezel. It, too, is operated by the secondary crown, but there are two scales depicted on it. It is both a 12-hour bezel and a count-up diver’s bezel. You can read your home time with the GMT hand at the center, and the bezel can track a 3rd time zone or your bottom time while diving. Supplied with the watch is a gorgeous red NATO strap completing the look. Dare to be different - this bold diver is the perfect traveling dive companion.

NEW WATCHES IN THE SHOP

MORE FROM THE CHRONICLE