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In the late 1950s, the U.S. Navy contracted Bulova to build a submersible watch capable of meeting the demanding needs of its divers. The resulting MIL-SHIPS-W-2181, never adopted by the military, represents a horological “could-have-been,” an American dive watch to counter the major Swiss brands. 

Bulova has taken the MIL-SHIPS back to the bronze age for the brand’s 150th anniversary, swapping the 41mm stainless steel case for sandblasted CuSn8 bronze. Each watch will take on its own unique patina. They have retained the original’s aluminum bezel and bicolor moisture indicator, a feature carried over from the original specification designed to notify the diver in the event of water intrusion. The MIL-SHIPS Bronze is available in Army Green and Naval Blue, tributes to the original’s service. Bulova has also reworked the case, increasing the original’s historically correct—if polarizing—16mm lugs to a more palatable 18mm. Each dial variant is paired with a color-matched hybrid rubber-cordura strap.

The MIL-SHIPS Bronze is powered by the Miyota 83S0, a Japanese-made automatic movement. It features 21 jewels, hacking, hand winding, a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour, and a power reserve of at least 60 hours.